COMPARING AMERICAN SINGLE-MALTS TO SCOTCH
Scotch is the great-grandad of whiskey, directly descending from the wild and raw barley spirit originated by Irish monks over 1000 years ago. Constantly improving and upgrading the process and the product allowed Scotch to become the world’s premier spirit, and creating tremendous opportunities for upstart American distillers to chase the giant.
Both American and Scotch single-malts follow similar paths through the production cycle: malting, mashing, distilling, maturing, and then bottling. However, in a variety of small and some not-so-small ways, they are “oceans” apart.
- SOURCE MATERIALS
The barley strain selected, its growing conditions (water, fertilizer, geography, terroir), and malting decisions all impact the mash. Yeast selection affects fermentation and results in unique characteristics of the wash. - MALTING
The basic malting processes for American and Scotch single-malts are similar, but the most significant differences lie in peat. Islay whiskies, and to a lesser extent Island and Highland malts, are renowned for distinctive smoky and medicinal flavors, imparted by drying malted barley over smoldering peat. Although American distillers are experimenting with smoke-drying as a way to create unique characteristics, most US malts use traditionally malted barley. - DISTILLATION
Although the distilling process used on both sides of “the pond” is virtually identical, decisions made along the way have a tremendous influence over the final product. Less to do with national origin than with skills and goals, US distilleries seem more interested in experimentation and technical advances than the traditions employed by Scotch makers. - CASKING
Although both Scotch and American single-malts often use similar casks, including ex-fill bourbon, sherry, port, and others, American distillers more frequently use new oak. These barrels provide more wood influence in a shorter timeframe, offsetting some American single malt maturation challenges. US distilleries are also more likely to experiment with cask size and materials. Smaller casks provide higher wood-to-whiskey contact ratio, further reducing the maturation time needed for wood flavors. - MATURATION
No production factor differs more between American and Scotch single-malts than aging (maturation time). For Scotch even to bear the name, Scottish law requires it to spend a minimum of three years in oak. American single-malts have no such mandate. Until the recent surge of NAS (Non-Age Statement) Scotch single-malts, 12 years was Scotch’s age standard, followed by 18 and 25 years. In contrast, it’s rare to find any age statement on American single-malts. There are three primary reasons for the lack of aged American malts.- MARKET INFANCY
The first commercial American single malt emerged in 1996, followed by just a few during the next twenty years. Over 90% of all American single-malt production occurred since 2016, resulting in the absence of “age-statement” single-malts. - ECONOMICS
The ability to set aside whiskey for extended aging is as much a function of cash flow as it is of desire and intention. In its early years, most distilleries need to sell, not save inventory. As income or funding permits, increasing volumes of production can be reserved for “library” use. Even then, aging is subject to other decision-making, including climate. Most Scotch distilleries have been around for years, sometimes even centuries. They are mostly well past the days where funding dictates whiskey aging decisions. Given the American market infancy and the expanding number of new participants, extended aging is a luxury many can’t afford. - CLIMATE
The most significant factor influencing maturation is climate. Scotland’s diminutive size (a peninsula 155 miles wide by 255 miles long) and northerly location (bounded by the Atlantic on the West and the North Sea to the east) limit climatic variations. Unlike American climate vagaries, Scotland’s homogenous cool-moist oceanic climate ensures predictable consistency. US malt maturation varies dynamically with geography. Those stored in the hot, dry American southwest undergo maturation-like changes much sooner than traditionally aged Scotch, and similar variations hold for those made in America’s climate regions. When coupled with casking options such as using smaller kegs for higher relative surface area contact, American malts can develop “age” characteristics differently to, and often sooner than Scotch. The best example of climate impact is volume loss due to evaporation. Scotch may lose up to two percent to evaporation and absorption over forty years, a Kentucky Bourbon can lose up to two percent per year, and Tequila aged in the hot Mexican summers can lose ten percent or more annually! American single-malts can experience these same “angel’s share” losses.
- MARKET INFANCY
AGE STATEMENTS AND PRODUCT QUALITY
It’s essential to understand how aging impacts whiskey, particularly in its marketing and the total single-malt experience. Consumers commonly assign causality between extended aging and quality, but the reality is subjective. Older whiskeys project a sense of finesse and rarity that permit, and command, higher prices. Although extending aging can impart more significant wood-born character and frequently softens the overall flavor and mouthfeel, the price is as much a function of perception-induced demand and scarcity as about the actual comparative quality. The subjective reality? It’s “better” if you think its better!
No matter your preferred whiskey age, Scotch and American single-malts are worlds apart in age-statement requirements. As reported earlier, Scotch must be wood-matured three or more years just to be called Scotch, while U.S. malts have no age requirements whatsoever. For Scotch to bear any age statement, every whiskey in the bottle must be at least the age statement, or older. With American malts, it’s the “wild-west” all over again. Even the use of “single-malt,” mandated in Scotland to mean “100% malt from one distillery,” is a voluntary requirement for American malts. A producer could call it a “single-malt” even with only 51% malt. Fortunately, most, if not all, American single-malters are voluntarily adhering to the naming and age conventions.